Shelf Life

“My cuisine has always been at the intersection of food and culture,” said Chef Deborah VanTrece, owner of the Twisted Soul Cookhouse and Pours in Atlanta, Georgia. “Having traveled the world as a flight attendant, I experienced how different cultures have their own versions of what we would call ‘soul food.’ My approach to cooking revolves around taking a modern, global approach to soul food, combined with the food I grew up eating with my family. THE TWISTED SOUL COOKBOOK will take you on a journey around the world right from your kitchen.”

Across chapters filled with vibrant photography, her book offers 100 recipes for dishes ranging from fresh salads and sides, generous entrees, exciting seafood, rich desserts, and brilliant as well as practical pantry staples to amplifying everyday cooking, including dressings, relishes, preserves, and sauces. An engaging teacher and storyteller, VanTrece shows home cooks the way to use techniques both simple and sophisticated to ensure a delicious outcome every time.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

Chef Deborah VanTrece opened the acclaimed Twisted Soul Cookhouse and Pours in 2014, and since then, the award-winning soul food restaurant has appeared on numerous Best Of lists, including features in the New York Times, Bon Appetit, NPR, Eater, Essence, Thrillist, Buzzfeed, Kitchn, and Food & Wine, winning acclaim for her mastery of imported cooking techniques and delicious globally informed cuisine.

She is included in 2020’s Tasty Pride: Recipes and Stories from the Queer Food Community; this is her first cookbook.

RECIPES

Grandma Lue’s Spinach Rice

• 3 cups cooked white rice, chilled
• 2 large eggs, beaten
• ½ cup unsalted butter (1 stick)
• ½ cup chopped celery
• ½ cup red bell pepper
• 1 cup chopped red onion
• 4 lbs fresh baby spinach, washed and trimmed
• 1 cup chopped marinated artichokes
• 12 oz cream cheese, room temperature
• ½ cup sour cream
• 1 cup grated Parmesan cheese
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• ½ teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper
• ½ teaspoon onion powder
• ½ teaspoon garlic powder
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt

Preheat the oven to 350°. Generously grease a deep casserole or 9 by 13-inch baking pan.

In a large bowl, stir together the cold rice and beaten eggs.

In a large skillet over medium-high heat, melt the butter. Add the celery, peppers, onions and spinach and cook, stirring occasionally for 2 to 3 minutes, until the onions are translucent and the spinach is wilted.

Reduce the heat to medium and stir in the artichokes, cream cheese, sour cream, Parmesan and garlic. Cool for 5 to 7 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the cream cheese has melted and all of the ingredients are well combined.

Add the spinach-cheese mixture to the rice. With a wooden spoon, stir in the black pepper, onion powder, garlic powder and salt.

Spoon into prepared baking dish, and cover with foil. Bake for 20 minutes, then remove the foil and bake for an additional 10 minutes, or until the top is nicely browned. Let rest for 15 minutes before serving.

Bacon-Praline Macaroni and Cheese

• 6 cups elbow macaroni, cooked al dente and drained
• 1 tbsp Lawry’s Seasoned Salt
• 1 tbsp ground white pepper
• 1 tbsp garlic powder
• 1 tbsp onion powder
• 3 1/2 cups shredded sharp cheddar cheese, divided
• 1/2 cup unsalted butter
• 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
• 8 cups milk, warmed
• 6 oz cream cheese, diced
• 12 oz. American cheese, diced
• 3 large eggs
• 8 oz applewood-smoked bacon (8 to 10 slices), cooked and crumbled

Praline topping:

• 1/2 cup unsalted butter, melted
• 2 cups coarsely chopped pecans or pecan pieces
• 1 cup packed light brown sugar
• 1/2 cup dried breadcrumbs

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

Transfer the cooked macaroni to a large bowl.

In a small bowl, stir together the seasoned salt, white pepper, garlic powder and onion powder. Sprinkle half of this seasoning mixture and 1 cup shredded cheddar cheese over the macaroni and toss to combine.

In a large saucepan over medium-high heat, melt the butter. Whisk in the flour and continue to whisk for 3 to 5 minutes, until it makes a light roux. Reduce the heat to medium and whisk in the milk. Once all the milk is incorporated, cook for another 5 to 8 minutes, until the sauce reaches a simmer. Add the diced cream cheese and American cheese in batches, stirring until smooth. Stir in 1 1/2 cups of the remaining shredded cheddar cheese and turn off the heat. Add the remaining seasoning mixture and stir well. Quickly whisk in the eggs until they are incorporated.

Country Captain Chicken Stew

This classic dish shows the influence of the Indian spice trade throughout the ports of the old South,’ says VanTrece about her recipe for a dish that dates back centuries.

• 1 (2 1/2- to 3-lb chicken, cut into 8 pieces
• 1 tsp Lawry’s Seasoned Salt
• 1 tsp onion powder
• 1 tsp garlic powder
• 1/2 tsp ground white pepper
• 2 tbsp duck fat or unsalted butter
• 3/4 cup chopped celery
• 1/2 cup chopped onion
• 1/2 cup chopped red bell pepper
• 1/2 cup chopped yellow bell pepper
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 cups chopped tomatoes (3 to 4 medium)
• 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
• 1/2 tsp ground cardamom
• 1/2 tsp red pepper flakes
• 2 tbsp curry powder
• 4 sprigs fresh thyme
• 1 cup chicken broth
• 1 (13.5-oz can coconut milk
• 1/2 cup raisins
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Peanut rice noodles:
• 1 tbsp vegetable oil
• 1/2 cup sliced scallions
• 1 (8.8-oz package rice noodles, cooked according to package directions, tossed in a little vegetable oil to prevent clumping, and chilled for 30 minutes
• 1 tsp kosher salt
• 1/4 cup chopped cilantro, plus more for garnish
• 1/2 cup toasted peanuts, plus more for garnish

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F (180 degrees C).

In a large bowl, sprinkle the chicken pieces with the seasoned salt, onion powder, garlic powder and white pepper. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 to 3 hours to marinate.

In a Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat, melt the duck fat. When hot, add the chicken pieces and cook for 10 to 15 minutes, turning to brown on all sides. Transfer to a platter and set aside.

Spring Pea, Bacon, and Radish Salad

“This dressing is so universally loved, it doesn’t need an explanation,” write VanTrece in the recipe’s introduction. “The extra herbs just add a notch to the flavor factor. It’s not only great for salads, you can use it atop salmon, fried green tomatoes, or as a dip for chicken wings.”

• 3 cups fresh or frozen peas (thawed, if frozen), blanched and drained, then chilled
• 6 slices applewood smoked bacon, cooked and crumbled
• 1 cup thinly sliced radishes
• 1/2 cup chopped red onion
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh mint, plus additional leaves for garnish
• 1 teaspoon lemon zest
• 2 to 3 tablespoons mayonnaise
• 1 tablespoon honey
• Salt and ground white pepper

In a large bowl, combine the peas, bacon, radishes, red onion, chopped fresh mint, and lemon zest, toss gently with the mayonnaise and honey. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and garnish with whole mint leaves. Serves 6.

Nutritional information

Per serving: Per serving: 195 calories (percent of calories from fat, 54), 8 grams protein, 15 grams carbohydrates, 4 grams fiber, 12 grams total fat (4 grams saturated), 19 milligrams cholesterol, 324 milligrams sodium.

Buttermilk Dressing

“This dressing is so universally loved, it doesn’t need an explanation,” writes VanTrece. “The extra herbs just add a notch to the flavor factor. It’s not only great for salads, you can use it atop salmon, fried green tomatoes, or as a dip for chicken wings.”

Buttermilk Dressing

• 1 1/2 cups mayonnaise
• 1/2 cup sour cream
• 2 cups buttermilk
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1 teaspoon granulated garlic
• 1 teaspoon granulated onion
• 1 teaspoon cracked black pepper
• 1 tablespoon chopped flat-leaf parsley
• 1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano
• 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives

In a food processor, combine the mayonnaise, sour cream, buttermilk, salt, granulated garlic, granulated onion, and pepper and process until smooth. Pulse in the fresh parsley, oregano, thyme, and chives until just combined. The dressing should be creamy but with a pleasing texture from the herbs.

Makes about 4 cups.

Nutritional information

Per serving: Per tablespoon: 23 calories (percent of calories from fat, 70), trace protein, 1 gram carbohydrates, trace fiber, 2 grams total fat (trace saturated fat), 3 milligrams cholesterol, 75 milligrams sodium.

Aunt Lucille’s 7UP Pound Cake

About this recipe, VanTrece writes, “This is a pound cake, and the only cake I can ever remember my Aunt Lucille ever making. For me, it will always carry cherished memories of celebrations and good times. This is the kind of recipe that reminds you how good old-fashioned cakes were (and can be). Definitely use 7UP for this recipe because it has a high level of carbonation that helps the cake to rise, and gives it a brighter, fresher lemon-lime flavor than other sodas.”

For the pound cake:

• 1 1/2 cups unsalted butter, at room temperature
• 3 cups granulated sugar
• 5 large eggs, at room temperature
• 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
• 1 teaspoon lemon extract
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 3 cups cake flour, sifted, divided
• 3/4 cup 7UP, divided
• For the 7UP glaze:
• 1 cup confectioners’ sugar
• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• 2 tablespoons 7UP
• 1 teaspoon grated lime zest 

Preheat oven to 325 degrees.

Spray a 10-inch Bundt or tube pan with nonstick cooking spray (see note above).

In the bowl of a stand mixer or with a hand mixer, cream together the butter and granulated sugar for 5 to 7 minutes, until light and fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time, scraping down the sides of the bowl after each addition. Add the lemon zest, lemon extract, and vanilla extract and mix until combined. Add the flour one-third at a time and mix on low speed, alternating with 1/4-cup portions of the 7UP, mixing well after each addition.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake for 1 hour to 1 hour 15 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Let cool for 30 minutes, then invert onto a wire rack and lift the pan off of the cake. Let the cake cool on the rack.

While the cake cools, make the glaze: In a small bowl, stir together the confectioners’ sugar, lemon juice, 7UP, and lime zest until smooth.

Using a 6-inch wooden skewer or toothpick, poke holes in the top of the cooled cake. Slowly spoon the glaze over the cake, letting it run into the holes and over the surface.

Set the cake aside for 10 minutes before serving to let the glaze absorb into the cake and give it a lightly lacquered finish.

The cake can be made well in advance, wrapped tightly in plastic, and frozen for up to 4 months. It will keep moist and can be pulled out to thaw several hours before serving. It’s great served alone or with ice cream or fresh fruit compote. Serves 12 to 16.

Nutritional information

Per serving: Per serving, based on 12: 598 calories (percent of calories from fat, 38), 6 grams protein, 89 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram fiber, 25 grams total fat (15 grams saturated), 138 milligrams cholesterol, 36 milligrams sodium.

All the above recipes and images are excerpted from The Twisted Soul Cookbook by Deborah VanTrece. Copyright © 2021 Deborah VanTrece. Photography by Noah Fecks. Published by Rizzoli. Reproduced by arrangement with the publisher. All rights reserved