Tag: Mexico

  • Mexico Kaleidoscope: Myths, Mysteries and Mystique

    Oenophiles might be surprised to learn that the oldest winery anywhere in the Americas is Casa Madero, formally established as long ago as 1597, located in Parras de la Fuente, a small town in the northern state of Coahuila.

    “In 1549 the Spanish priests and soldiers who explored this region discovered native vines growing wild in a valley and chose the spot to found the Mission of Santa María de Las Parras (“Holy Mary of the Vines”),”writes Tony Burton, the editor of MexConnect, Mexico’s top English-language online magazine, in his book Mexico Kaleidoscope: Myths, Mysteries and Mystique. “The early Mission of Santa María soon began to make wine from the local grapes, and a few years later the wines and brandies of the Valley of Parras were being shipped to the rest of the Americas.”

    But Mexico’s sophisticated approach to agriculture goes even further back than that.

    “The Mexica/Aztecs solved the dilemma of how to supply food to their island capital by developing a sophisticated wetland farming system involving raised beds, or chinampas, built in the lake,” writes Burton about when the city of Tenochtitlan was built, fortress-like, on an island. Though good for defense, it made providing a food source more difficult but there was a solution to that. “Originally these chinampas were free-floating, but over time they became rooted to the lake floor. The chinampas were separated by narrow canals, barely wide enough for small boats or canoes. From an ecological perspective, chinampas represented an extraordinary achievement: a food production system which proved to be one of the most environmentally sustainable and high-yielding farming systems anywhere on the planet! Constructing and maintaining chinampas required a significant input of labor, but the yields per unit area could be very high indeed, especially since up to four harvests a year were possible.”

    Burton covers 10,000 years of Mexican culture and history. It’s a compilation of “Did You Know?” columns for MexConnect, which ranks in the top 3% of all Internet sites in the world, registering over half a million sessions a year.

    It was his way of presenting and preserving relatively little-known but fascinating information about Mexico to a large number of readers.

    “One of my main motivations was that—to the best of my knowledge—no similar book for the general reader had been published in the past forty years,” says Burton. “An incredible amount of interesting academic research had been done on Mexico over that time, leading to reevaluations and reinterpretations of many former ideas and beliefs. I wanted to make readers aware of some of these extraordinary developments, which continually refuel my passionate interest in Mexico.”

    This very readable and fascinating book can be read cover to cover, says Burton, noting that it is also designed to allow readers to ‘dip into’ and read in whatever order appeals to them. 

    “When writing the book, I was trying to engage readers by expanding on, or challenging, some commonly held or overly simplistic ideas, in the hope of offering some ‘food for thought’ about many things Mexican,” he says.“Each chapter has a list of sources and suggestions for those readers who want to explore more.”

    The title Mexican Kaleidoscope is a nod to Norman Pelham Wright, a British writer whose own collection of essays, with the same title, was published in 1948.

    “That book was an eye-opener for me when I first began to get intimately acquainted with Mexico more than forty years ago,” says Burton. “The subtitle Myths, Mysteries and Mystique came from a suggestion by one of my regular golfing partners—who had read an early draft of the book—as we played the 11th hole at Cottonwood Golf Course on Vancouver Island.”

    The book is illustrated by Mexican artist Enrique Velázquez, a long-time friend of Burton’s.

    “Enrique has a keen interest in the subject matter and an uncanny ability to portray ideas in just a few lines,” says Burton. “I originally envisioned using small, inline drawings to break up the text, much in the manner of old-time illustrators, but his final drawings were far too good for that, so we changed track and gave them the prominence and space they merit.”

    “Every chapter has come to mean far more to me than is expressed by mere words on a page,” says Burton about the 30 chapters. “I really hope some of my enthusiasm comes through to readers. At the very least I’d like the book to cause readers to stop and think, to be occasionally surprised, and perhaps question things that they may have previously thought or heard about Mexico. As I’ve written elsewhere, Mexico is not always an easy country to understand but any effort to do so always seems to bring rich reward!”

    About the Author

    Burton, a Fellow of the Royal Geographical Society who was born and educated in the United Kingdom, first visited Mexico in 1977. Returning, he lived for almost two decades in the country where he worked as a writer, educator, and ecotourism specialist. An award-winning author, his other books include If Walls Could Talk: Chapala’s Historic Buildings and Their Former Occupants; Foreign Footprints in Ajijic: Decades of Change in a Mexican Village; Western Mexico: A Traveler’s Treasury; and Lake Chapala Through The Ages: An Anthology of Travelers’ Tales.

     Mexico Kaleidoscope can be found in print and on Kindle through Amazon.

     

  • If Walls Could Talk: Lake Chapala’s historic buildings and their former occupants

    If Walls Could Talk: Lake Chapala’s historic buildings and their former occupants

    Now one of the most popular retirement area for Americans and Canadians, the Lake Chapala Region, nestled in a valley almost a mile high in Mexico’s Volcanic Axis,  has long been a draw for ex-pats and vacationers, lured by its almost perfect climate and beauty.

    In his book If Walls Could Talk: Chapala’s historic buildings and their former occupants about Mexico‘s earliest international tourist destination (also available in Spanish), award-winning author Tony Burton shares his knowledge and interest in a region where he has spent more than two decades. Burton, a Fellow of the Royal Geographical Society who was born and educated in the United Kingdom, first visited Mexico in 1977. That visit was obviously a big success as he returned and for almost 18 years lived and worked full-time in Mexico as a writer, educator and ecotourism specialist.

    He met his wife, Gwen Chan Burton who was a teacher of the deaf and then director at the Lakeside School for the Deaf in Jocotepec, one of the three main towns lining the shores of Lake Chapala. Though they now reside on Vancouver Island, British Columbia, the Burtons continue to revisit Mexico regularly and he is currently editor-in-chief of MexConnect, Mexico’s top English-language online magazine.

    The other two towns, each with its own distinctive vibe, are Ajijic and Chapala, native villages resettled by the Spanish Conquistadors in the 1500s. “This book looks at how Chapala, a small nondescript fishing village in Jalisco, suddenly shot to international prominence at the end of the nineteenth century as one of North America’s earliest tourist resorts,” writes Burton. “Within twenty years, Chapala, tucked up against the hills embracing the northern shore of Mexico’s largest natural lake, was attracting the cream of Mexican and foreign society. Thus began Lake Chapala’s astonishing transformation into the vibrant international community it is now, so beloved of authors, artists and retirees.”

    The book, organized as a walking tour, covers not only existing buildings but also pinpoints the spots where significant early buildings no longer stand but their histories still weave a story of the town. It’s only a partial guide, explains Burton, noting that an inventory prepared by the National Institute of Anthropology and History identified more than eighty such buildings in Chapala including many not easily visible from the road but hidden behind high walls and better viewed from the lake.

    Among the famous people who lived in Chapala at some point in their careers was author D.H. Lawrence, probably best remembered for his risqué (at the time) novel, Lady Chatterley’s Lover.

    In 1923, Lawrence and his wife, Frieda, rented Casa de las Cuentas (House of Rosary Beads), a house that dates back to the 1800s. At the time, a one-story abode with a half-moon entrance and heavy wooden gates, it was located at 307 Calle Zaragoza, a street formerly known as Calle de la Pesquería (“Fishing street”) so named as it was where the local fishermen repaired their nets and hung them out to dry. It was while living on Calle Zaragoza that Lawrence wrote the first draft of The Plumed Serpent, published in 1926. The novel is described asthe story of a European woman’s self-annihilating plunge into the intrigues, passions, and pagan rituals of Mexico.”

    Over the decades, after the Lawrences moved out, subsequent changes were made to Casa de las Cuentas including  the addition of a swimming pool in the mid-1950s when artist Roy MacNicol and his wife, Mary, owned the home.

    While Lawrence’s writings were considered by some as scandalous, MacNicol’s life had its scandals as well. Burton describes him as “colorful” in that he was married multiple times and was involved in many escapades as well as lawsuits.

    Mary, embracing the local culinary traditions including the use of flowers in cooking, authored Flower Cookery: The Art of Cooking With Flowers.

    It wasn’t the work of a dilettante as reviews of her book such as this one on Amazon shows.

    “Flower Cookery is recipes, but far more than recipes,” writes one reviewer. “The book is organized by the popular name of the flower in question. Each section is introduced with quotations from literature, philosophy, and poetry that feature the blossom. This is followed by the recipes, interwoven with mythology, stories, and aphorisms about the flower, the plant from which it grows, its symbolism, and the culture or society in which humans discovered the value of the plant or blossom. The recipes include original favorites as well as recipes collected from historical sources and contemporary sources around the world. Here is just the tiniest sampling of the riches in the book.”

    Burton shares her Christmas Cheer recipe from when she lived at Casa de las Cuentas.

    Christmas Cheer

    10-12 squash blossoms with stems removed

    2 eggs, beaten

    2 to 3 tablespoons water

    Flour, enough to thicken mixture about one tablespoon

    Salt and pepper

    1 cup neutral oil such as grapeseed, canola, or safflower

    Wash and dry squash blossoms on paper towels, making sure to remove all the water. Mix remaining ingredients except oil to make a smooth batter. Place oil in a large, heavy skillet to 350-375°F. Dip blossoms in batter and fry in oil until golden brown. Drain on paper towels. Serve hot.

    As for the house, it was renovated again in the early 1980s and is now Quinta Quetzalcoatl, a lovely boutique hotel.

    If Walls Could Talk is one of four books that Burton has written on the Lake Chapala region. The other three are Foreign Footprints in Ajijic: decades of change in a Mexican Village; Lake Chapala Through the Ages: an anthology of travelers’ tales  (2008), and the recent Lake Chapala: A Postcard history. All are available as print and ebooks on Amazon.

    The above maps, both copyrighted, show Chapala 1915 [lower map] and 1951 [upper map].

    In all, he’s planning on adding several more to what he currently calls the Lake Chapala Quartet, these focusing on the writers and artists associated with the area.  I asked him  to describe the region so readers who have never been there can get an idea of what it is like, but it turns out the Burton is NOT a traveler who meticulously plots every moment of a trip before he arrives. Instead, he tells me that part of the fun when traveling is to not know in advance what places are like and instead to see and experience them for yourself.

    “That said,” he continues, “the various villages and towns on the shores of Lake Chapala are all quite different in character. The town of Chapala, specifically, is a pretty large and bustling town. It is growing quite rapidly and has added several small high end boutique hotels in recent years, as well as some fine dining options to complement the more traditional shoreline ‘fish’ restaurants. The many old–100 years plus–buildings in Chapala give the town a historic ‘air’ where it is relatively easy to conjure up images of what it was like decades ago. By comparison, Ajijic, now the center of the foreign community on Lake Chapala, has virtually no old buildings and more of a village and artsy feel to it, though it also has very high quality accommodations and more fine restaurants than you can count.”

    Other structures still standing include the Villa Tlalocan, completed in 1896 and described by a contemporary journalist as “the largest, costliest and most complete in Chapala… a happy minglement of the Swiss chalet, the Southern verandahed house of a prosperous planter and withal having an Italian suggestion. It is tastefully planned and is set amid grounds cultivated and adorned with flowers so easily grown in this paradisiacal climate where Frost touches not with his withering finger…”

    Also still part of the landscape is Villa Niza. One of many buildings designed by Guillermo de Alba, the house, according to Burton, was built in 1919 and looks more American than European in style. Located at Hidalgo 250, it takes advantage of its setting on Lake Chapala and has a mirador (look out) atop the central tower of the structure, which affords sweeping panoramic views over the gardens and lake. De Alba’s strong geometric design boasts only minimal exterior ornamentation.

    Burton, who specializes in non-fiction about Mexico, related to geography, history, travel, economics, ecology and natural history, has written several fascinating books about the history of the Lake Chapala region.

    In If Walls Could Talk, Burton invites you to walk with him through time as you explore the city.